I realize that technique isn’t for everybody, but this is a 100 percent honest account of my Thanksgiving, so there you have it. The funny thing about holidays is that you are the same person on those days as you are all the other days of the year. We’re here to help. A Thanksgiving “orange food moment,” if you will. So now all I do is squeeze lemon over the greens, season with flaky salt and freshly ground pepper, maybe drizzle with olive oil. You have to admit, it’s resourceful. This is why I’m such a champion of room-temperature food, especially for large holidays, because even if you did a great job of nailing the timing and the food is served piping hot, people will still be milling about after you’ve told them to take a seat. That is a really good idea! For those who want to let the side dishes do the talking, this is the bird for you: It’s dry-brined (meaning highly seasoned) with only salt, pepper, thyme and a little brown sugar, then roasted on a sheet pan. And it's less about you serving them, and then about participating in the meal, and you kind of all cooked together. At some point, I go pick up my turkey. (Ever try to pass a platter of turkey? Watch now: youtu.be/L696FZMmZ9w I call this Cheater’s Turkey Stock because instead of buying an additional five pounds of wings or turkey parts and doing the whole song and dance, I start with store-bought stock, which I fortify with vegetables, the turkey neck and some of the giblets. Anyway, I tear the bread, crust and all, onto a sheet pan and leave it uncovered to dry out overnight. Temperature-sensitive vegetables should be put away accordingly (herbs and leafy greens wrapped in damp paper towels and stored in resealable bags, for instance). The first thing I do after the oven gets cranked to 425 degrees is put the squash in there on the rack below the turkey. You should tear it. The water was sparkly and ocean clear, run through with striped bass sipping sand eels and the occasional late-season bonito beneath them. I carve the breast into ½-inch-thick slices, but I know that thickness is a personal preference. With soy sauce to cut the sweet fattiness of the meat, a little wasabi powder mixed with water for a fiery paste to do the same, and some of the dry Japanese seasoning known as furikake, but which my kids call “shake,” it all made for a simple dinner of incredible elegance, wild perfection, the best sort of way to honor the harvest. Come visit! I couldn’t have imagined, way back when, that Byrne would someday take on the role Fred Rogers used to play, but here I am in the neighborhood again, feeling good about the future, despite all. Snacks & Condiments; Vegetables; Salads; Pasta & Grains [See Alison’s full Thanksgiving feast here.]. I season the whole shebang liberally with salt and pepper. Before I retire for the evening, I strain and refrigerate the stock and use whatever energy I have to clean the kitchen so I can start with a (mostly) clean space in the morning. Alison Roman's Crushed Sour Cream Potatoes are good enough to make you want to tweak your Thanksgiving menu. It goes with everything, and you’ll be glad you made it. You can find further inspiration on our Facebook page. Opening a can of jellied cranberries, slicing the wobbly textured tube into glistening gemstone slabs, and garnishing them with freshly sliced citrus and thinly sliced red onion. It’s better to have the turkey roasted and resting than to have to wait for it to finish, so get it in sooner rather than later. The turkey has released a lot of liquid, so I transfer it to a new baking sheet, sans wire rack. This can be done at a farmers’ market or grocery store. Once the turkey is golden brown and cooked to temperature, I’ll remove it from the oven and let it rest on the sheet pan to allow it time to release juices and fats I’ll use for the gravy. I was fishing east of the Breezy Point jetty over the weekend, maybe a mile out from the Rockaway Peninsula in Queens, drifting quick on the tide. Using your hands, tear bread, crust and all, into 1 1/2- to 2-inch pieces. I prefer the buffet route, which means the only things that go on the table are smaller items that can be easily passed, like the cranberries, gravy and salad. It is time. Since I’m not going to be making the gravy on the actual baking sheet, I scrape up all the bits and pour them into a measuring cup with the Cheater’s Turkey Stock. Putting the turkey in the oven starts the true Thanksgiving countdown clock. The nice thing about these suggestions is that everything recipe that I’ve recommended here … Yes, the cranberries should be from a can! I remove it from the heat and let it hang out on the back burner until I transfer it to whatever small, preferably pourable vessel I have. While all the food is being set out, I delegate someone to open wine so there’s more than one bottle circulating. Take it from me, someone who is disorganized and a little chaotic. Roasting a turkey on a sheet pan promotes even browning, still gives you the opportunity to make a fantastic gravy, and is incredibly efficient. There’s no easy way to say this, but you have to go into the turkey from both ends: The heart, kidneys and liver are almost always bagged together at one end, the neck at the other. This is my turkey. Just write: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Because my fridge storage is so precious and limited, I keep anything that doesn’t need to be refrigerated out on the counter and grouped with like-minded items. Here’s what I’ll be cooking, and how I’ll pull it off. I move the onions, garlic and caramelized lemon to the serving platter I’ll use for the turkey. ... Thanksgiving. We visited Alison's Brooklyn apartment for inspiration, tips + recipes for a "very casual, very fun" dinner party. Alison’s leafy herb salad is excellent. You can use broccolini, brussels sprouts, whatever, but this dish did originate as an homage to a green bean casserole. No “twists,” no “updates.” Just perfect, classic stuffing. Speaking of which, please read Michael Schwirtz and Gaelle Borgia on Russia’s meddling in the election of the president of Madagascar, in The Times. Nothing Fancy's Alison Roman will see a sellout crowd in DC ... dinner with alison. This gives you those craggy edges and nooks and crannies, better for soaking and crisping. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/dining/alison-roman-thanksgiving.html Don’t forget aluminum foil, plastic wrap, paper towels and resealable bags for leftovers. This is truly the high-low condiment of the year. by Alison Roman. (Alternatively, you can cut … Hello and welcome to THE BEST OF: Thanksgiving. I’ll have something like jammy eggs or cottage cheese with buttered toast. First, I remove the turkey from the fridge and take out the giblets and bits inside. Since I plan on eating around 6 p.m., I start cooking around 10 a.m. If you don’t do delivery, send someone you trust to the store instead, or make a run yourself. This is my football game, my apple pie. I scatter onions, garlic and lemon around the turkey, and stuff them in the cavity too, then drizzle with a mixture of melted butter and olive oil. Remove everything, discarding the kidneys and setting aside the heart, liver and neck. I’ve been cooking professionally for 15 years, and I have never owned one, because a tool I’ll use only once a year has no business taking up space in my kitchen. I try not to wake up too early today, knowing that it’s going to be a long one. Oh, also, candles (everyone looks great in candlelight). Then I prepare the dry brine, a basic mixture of salt, pepper, thyme and brown sugar; I prefer my turkey to be well seasoned but classic, so the side dishes are the boldest things on the table. That is a good way to make cranberry sauce! I divide the salad between two smaller bowls so that one can go to each end of the table. This allows me to take my time, stop for breaks (and snacks), get lost in the news cycle, tidy up the apartment and mindlessly scroll Instagram in between slicing apples and trimming green beans. Add mint or dill leaves, if you have them on hand. It gets wrapped and chilled until I’m ready to bake tomorrow. (I’m sure you’ve guessed, but no, I do not own a gravy boat.) For the sides, I’ll make creamy potatoes, a sweet orange vegetable and a savory green vegetable. Essential Ingredients Cooking Techniques ... By Alison Roman. Prop Stylist: Amy Elise Wilson. Classic DIY "Stove Top" Stuffing. (This now becomes our “fortified stock.”). My attitude toward making anything ahead is that unless you absolutely must for the sake of the recipe, it’s probably not worth it. Alison Roman Holiday Party Ideas. All in all, you’ll want at least 30 minutes (and upward of 45 minutes) of resting. To avoid a traffic jam, there has to be a mix of items made on the stovetop and items made in the oven, a mix of room-temp items and hot items. All Hanukkah Gifts by Price. Now at least two tasks have been done, which makes me feel pretty accomplished. You’ll love it. I am not a centerpiece or flower arrangement person, but I am a sucker for festive décor, like wild-looking leaves or branches that aren’t too pretty or pristine. While that’s roasting, I toast some hazelnuts, which are sprinkled over the top for added texture, which means that once the squash is out, the dish will be pretty much ready to go. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. For the topping: Combine the flour, brown sugar, cardamom and salt in a medium bowl. Recipe by Alison Roman. DU Home » Latest Threads » Forums & Groups » Topics » Home & Family » Cooking & Baking (Group) » Alison Roman cooks Thanks... Tue Nov 12, 2019, 06:49 PM elleng (101,498 posts) It’s not cute, but a Pyrex measuring cup works very well, as do coffee mugs. recipes & recommendations, questions & answers. I rub the dry brine over the turkey: over and under, inside and out. It’s my favorite thing. I don’t truss because, well, who has the time. And on YouTube, of course. For space purposes, I may let the turkey rest in the dining room on my credenza while I finish everything else in the kitchen, but I’m not one to need or want a display turkey. These extremely rich, highly textured potatoes are no less luxurious than the silky mashed variety, but they are a lot less work. I stare at my bowls of prepped and ready-to-cook ingredients and feel calm again. Plus: an investigation of chamoy from Richard Parks III. For me, this is really the busiest day. It’s more evenly cooked, the fat is better rendered (which equals crisp skin), and I’m not worried about a dry breast (the worst). Last, but certainly not least, I carve the turkey. Check it out. Once the oven is free, I remove the foil from the baking dish and place the stuffing back in the oven to crisp. Then I add broth, whisked together with a few eggs, and toss the whole mixture a few times like I’m working the salad station at Sweetgreen. The vegetables are finished with toasted hazelnuts for texture and fresh lemon zest for perkiness. You can use carrots, squash or sweet potatoes here. To slice canned cranberry sauce as if it were a ripe tomato is top-drawer Alison. This salad is ideal for Thanksgiving dinner, something lemony to nibble on between rich bites of sour cream potatoes and buttered stuffing. I’ve always thought roasting a turkey is like roasting a giant chicken, which I’d just do on a baking sheet. I transfer this to a baking dish, dot with butter, cover with foil and bake. If I wasn’t stressed before, I may be a little stressed now. I’m not judging, either way. This sweet-and-salty squash recipe can be done with most hearty orange vegetables, like sweet potatoes or carrots. https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/13/dining/alison-romans-big-thanksgiving.html November 13, 2019. Alison Roman. As for dinner tonight? If you’re planning on supplying wine — I like to, because I am a control freak and want to make sure I’m drinking fantastic things all night long — place an order at a local wine shop for pickup or delivery. I don’t believe in wine pairings, really, and especially not on Thanksgiving. While the stuffing is in the oven, I finish the green beans, since they’re done on the stovetop and take all of five minutes. I pull the crust from the fridge to soften slightly while I slice the apples and toss them with the honey, cinnamon and other ingredients. Chef Alison Roman's Brooklyn Kitchen Is Just As Cool As You Imagined It. If you are generally disorganized and a little chaotic in the kitchen, you won’t magically transform into someone who isn’t. But that has never stopped me from being enthusiastic about Thanksgiving, a holiday that’s dedicated almost exclusively to cooking and eating, my two favorite things. We will get back to you. (If you don’t have a credenza, use a kitchen island, countertop or whatever credenza-esque thing you’ve got.) November 2017 This salad demonstrates the magic that happens when you show both the raw and cooked sides of ingredients. For me, the sight alone is as good as Xanax. I’ll probably start with something sparkling and festive, then move into light reds that prefer a little chill on them. You want to bake it hot and fast to get the edges and top as crispy as possible without drying out the interior. Plus, a baking dish of neatly cubed bread looks like bread pudding to me, and this is not that! I place the turkey in the oven, untrussed, for about 2½ to 3 hours at 325 degrees, before cranking the oven to 425 degrees to finish browning the skin. These are the things you’d want to pick out yourself to make sure the potatoes are the correct size and the parsley is perky. And, if I don’t generally approve of salad at Thanksgiving, I understand that others do. I want classic stuffing. But don’t sleep on the buttered stuffing with celery and leeks, or the spicy caramelized squash with lemon. The first thing on my to-do list is to make that galette. Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott for The New York Times. Once I come home, I unpack everything, basking in the pleasure of knowing I won’t have to leave the house for the next 48 hours. Try it with the best and freshest fish you can find at the market. I also feel that trussing prevents the legs from getting as brown as they can become, which is why I’m here. (Later, I’ll crisp it up with a second bake.). Nothing Fancy; Dining In; RECIPES. Alison Roman's Big Thanksgiving Media Mamat Turbo. We are entering the busiest … Preparation. Lauren Zaser / Alice Mongkongllite / Via BuzzFeed Life Thanksgiving… All Thanksgiving Dinnerware Serveware Flatware Glassware + Barware Hanukkah. Alison Roman, the “prom queen of the pandemic,” has been dethroned—at least for now. If you have the time and desire to make turkey stock before Thanksgiving cooking gets started, then feel free. It’s not a glamorous job, but someone (me) has to do it. So naturally, I had to make the buttery stuffing with leeks and celery again. For a bright, lemony moment, there’ll be herby salad to nibble on between bites of stuffing and gravy. The Kremlin wants what’s in the ground in Africa so bad. Green Beans and Greens With Fried Shallots. Soups, Stocks & Stews — view — Desserts & Baked Goods — view — Breakfast — view — Good day. My refrigerator is about three-quarters the size of a normal fridge, so if I don’t need something for Thanksgiving, it must go. I had thought to make poke. What’s left on the pan is all the good stuff to make gravy with. I season with soy sauce and a touch of vinegar, and simmer until the gravy is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, but saucy enough to pour without clumping. Once all that is done and you’ve got a good playlist going, it’s time to start prepping. I also adjust the fridge shelves to clear space for the turkey and the 29 sticks of butter I’ll be buying. This is a crucial step in making perfect stuffing, ensuring the bread is fresh enough that it remains porous, so it can absorb the brothy mixture, but also dry enough that it doesn’t turn to mush. This is a trick I learned from my Grandpa Bob, who would do that, then pick the meat from the cooked neck and eat it as a pre-Thanksgiving midnight snack. I feel relaxed for at least 10 minutes. It can be done, and if I can do it there, you can do it anywhere. Then I put the turkey back into the fridge where I won’t think about it until tomorrow. (I skip that part, but it’s still a nice memory.). would recommend.) How To Host Thanksgiving For The First Time Ever (For Under $100) You ~can~ even. Not since I removed its giblets have I been so intimate with a turkey. I’ve simmered them with cane sugar and freshly grated ginger, and cooked them to a perfectly saucy texture. If all I served tonight were galette and stuffing, I’d be pretty happy, but other people are coming over so I’ll continue. on Russia’s meddling in the election of the president of Madagascar. (Yes, you need a subscription to access them.). (Even if you’re not making this particular galette, this is the time you’d make any sort of pie crust.) This shop is for all of the remaining items — vegetables, herbs, fruits, nice bread for stuffing — that aren’t arriving in today’s grocery delivery. Alison Roman and Evan Kleiman team up to answer your burning Thanksgiving questions. Now for the actual hardest part of the whole evening: getting everyone to sit down at one time to eat. Yes, they should be accompanied by sliced tangerines, red onion and flaky salt! You may be surprised to learn that these cranberries come from a can, but listen: I’ve made cranberry sauce using fresh cranberries and frozen ones. I am full from eating the corners of the stuffing and snacking on the best parts of the turkey as I carved, but I still make myself a plate on which none of my food touches (yes, I am one of those people). Alison Roman is finding herself under fire yet again after she submitted to an interview about topics related to race and racism with comedian Ziwe Fumudoh. Mine starts with leeks, garlic and more celery than you’re probably used to seeing sautéed in lots of butter and olive oil. Of course I’ll be making turkey and gravy, to be eaten on a bed of stuffing (my favorite part). You might prefer quick-roasted chicken with tarragon, or perhaps a nice big bowl of pasta alla Norma sorta, from Colu Henry. Update, May 21, 2020 11:25 a.m.: The saga continues. It’s the ultimate in high-low, my personal brand. I will not say, “You can also cut the bread with a knife if you like,” because I really don’t believe you should. I make a roux with butter and flour in a clean medium pot, then add the fortified stock mixture, whisking constantly until a thick gravy starts to form. I tend to play it pretty fast and loose with the details, and things are always subject to change, but even I appreciate some structure to help stay organized. Designed and produced by Gray Beltran, Kim Gougenheim and Rebecca Lieberman. Aside from the gravy, stuffing is the only thing I care about having hot on the table, so this is one of the last things I do. Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott for The New York Times. These delightfully al dente green beans are a quick-cooking nod to the green bean casserole. Serves 8. It’s a smart, informed and helpful story accompanied by a riveting and very funny video and a whole bunch of amazing recipes that I hope you will introduce to your Thanksgiving sideboard this year. Once the galette is in the oven, I start on the stuffing so it can go in for its first bake once the galette is out. And please write if anything goes sideways. I place my delivery order to arrive the day before Thanksgiving, which always makes me feel more relaxed, knowing that at least some food is going to arrive at some point. If it’s frozen — many turkeys, even the very good ones, are sold frozen or partly defrosted — I set it on a rimmed baking sheet, take off its plastic outfit, and let it begin defrosting in my sink. To set up the buffet in an elegant, decidedly un-summer camp way, I stack plates, napkins and a vase of utensils on my credenza. I prefer a coarse crush or smash to creamy potato purée. Finally, back on the subject of food, I’ve been loving the strange explorations of Chinese cuisine brought forth by “Flavorful Origins,” on Netflix. (It’s fine if you don’t, but the more the … By Alison Roman… Even with that relatively generous timeline, all the real cooking I do for Thanksgiving simply happens the day of, in a very small New York City kitchen with an extremely small refrigerator and an even smaller oven. After a lot of experimenting, I prefer the low-and-slow treatment for my turkey. Yes, they should be the jellied kind! ... View in Browser: Add nytdirect@nytimes.com to your address book. You know what else is good? Alison Roman: When you treat your guests like participants, then it changes the entire dynamic of your experience cooking, but also their experience attending that Thanksgiving. While the turkey finishes roasting and the squash is in, I take care of a few things that don’t need the oven, like the cranberries. Pies take too long, and galettes lack the holiday drama. Alison Roman makes a very big Thanksgiving dinner in her very small kitchen (with an extremely small refrigerator and even smaller oven). I’ll make my first (but definitely not last) Chemex of the day. It may seem strange to have such a simple salad (or any salad) on the table, but keeping this part straightforward, fresh and herby is the way to do it. (And her recipe for a cheater’s turkey stock.) My crust is always butter, never shortening or lard, and I make it by hand, never in a food processor. I’m not usually a breakfast person, but to me, Thanksgiving is like running a marathon, and I need some version of carbo-loading to make it through. To avoid unnecessary personal meltdowns while cooking this meal, I’ve learned to match my expectations with my reality. Even food writer Alison Roman, who has published turkey recipes of her own, admitted that she prefers the theatrics of serving a turkey to the act of actually eating one. To submit a letter to the editor for publication, write to. You can use our Thanksgiving menu planner to figure out some of what you want to cook at the end of the month, or you can browse through our turkey recipes, to see what appeals. The rest of us can doctor store-bought broth with the “extra” parts of the turkey. Thanksgiving Christmas Cooking 101 Cooking 101 See all Cooking 101 . At this point, the turkey will have been resting for a little while, so I transfer it to a cutting board, tipping it ever so slightly tail-side down to get rid of any juices inside the cavity. Chrissy Teigen said she is not OK with The New York Times putting cookbook author Alison Roman's column on temporary leave after Alison … We’re on Instagram as well. You’ll find thousands more ideas for what to cook on NYT Cooking. Then, after I fill my glass to maximum capacity, I look around and feel grateful that I got to take a whole day to cook for people I love. 1 loaf crusty white bread (french bread, ciabatta, etc) ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter One of those grabbed my big Clouser fly, did some head-shaking runs and eventually came to the boat, and that was my dinner a few hours later, no recipe required. I make two plates of these so one can go on each end of the table. All I have to do here is reheat the heavy cream mixture and chop the herbs. As for which wines to pour, my advice is to drink what you like drinking. (I won’t tell you I’ve done this in the bathtub for space reasons, even though I have; F.Y.I., this is not what the F.D.A. (Yes, there are homemade fried shallots!). Welcome to the Cooking newsletter. 2 All The Chains Offering Free Food On Election Day. Her crushed sour cream potatoes might displace my Sweeney potatoes this year. It is absolutely the right time — it is always the right time — to think about pie. This deep-dish version is the best of both worlds with a proper filling-to-crust ratio. I season and then combine the celery mixture with the bread in the largest bowl I have. First is that I do not believe stuffing is the time to get whimsical or creative. Your turkey, on the other hand, should always be seasoned a day ahead. Prop Stylist: Amy Elise Wilson. I’ll need the oven space later — plus, the galette is genuinely better after it’s rested for a few hours, and it does not need to be served warm. That said, if you must truss for aesthetic reasons, truss away. Surely there are others like me! As I’m sure you’ve guessed, I don’t do that. This galette also works in a 9-inch pie plate, but the high sides of the springform are pretty dramatic, and I live for a little bit of holiday drama. Set over medium … No dried fruit, no dicing the bread. This squash is a Thanksgiving “orange food” moment: something kind of sweet and salty, probably roasted, and done with an orange vegetable. The stuffing is the thing I feel most passionately about for Thanksgiving and defending those feelings is the hill I will die on. I’m also a sucker for tradition and routine, and while my lifestyle and schedule don’t leave much room for either, I cherish the one day a year to honor both. I fill the crust with the apples, fold up the sides, brush with egg wash, sprinkle with sugar, flaky sea salt and sesame seeds, and put it in the oven. This is the first bake that cooks the stuffing through. TIDY UP AND GET TO BED AT A REASONABLE HOUR, Alison Roman Cooks Thanksgiving in a (Very) Small Kitchen. Our New Line Of Thanksgiving Merch Is Here! Sign up here to get it delivered straight to your inbox. Finally, I’m definitely making a platter of her fancy canned cranberries, because it’s such a clever, chic idea: wit and deliciousness combined. Toss breadcrumbs with 3 Tbsp. I love seeing my counter filled with lots of bowls of prepared ingredients, ready to be cooked. No thank you.) When it comes to what makes the cut, I am an unapologetic traditionalist on this day and this day only. The thigh meat can be sliced off the bone or shredded, depending on how tender it cooked up. I smash the boiled potatoes (or ask someone to help, since this is a task truly anyone can do) and combine with the seasoned and simmered cream, sour cream and herbs. It’s a smart, informed and helpful story accompanied by a riveting and very funny video and a whole bunch of amazing recipes that I hope you will introduce to your Thanksgiving sideboard this year. For the next few hours, in between other tasks, I’m doing general prep, like cutting squash, trimming green beans, tearing kale, boiling potatoes, picking herbs — stuff that’ll help me once it’s time to execute each dish. It’s fine, though, because unless it’s a very specific breed from a particular farm, you will be able to get a turkey three days before Game Day from most butchers and grocery stores, which anticipate disorganized or forgetful people like me. Personally, I was shocked at how many recipes I’ve developed that I thought: Damn, that would be great with stuffing (all of them, really). Aside from making sure your preferences on potatoes are represented, the secret to a good Thanksgiving menu is timing. I roll out the crust and slump it into a 9-inch springform pan, making sure to leave plenty of overhang (that’s what makes it a galette, not a tart). We spent three days in her kitchen as she cooked, hosted and served some controversial opinions about the classic holiday meal. My goal is 6 p.m., so I’ll put the bird in around 2 p.m., which means that around 1 p.m., I’ll remove it from the fridge and prepare it for roasting. I’ve already cut the squash, so I just toss it with olive oil, maple syrup and spices on a rimmed baking sheet and place it in the oven. Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott for The New York Times. This will aid in deglazing the sheet pan and add extra juice to the gravy, instead of spilling out onto your cutting board. I’ll even do things like prepare the cream mixture for the potatoes. Trendy cauliflower and leafy greens such as kale, mustard greens, or Swiss chard team up in Alison's take on cauliflower gratin for a memorable Thanksgiving side dish. Setting the table and making space for every dish is romantic in theory, but never seems to work with the size of my dining room (not large) and the size of my guest list (large). Fuchsia Dunlop talks the canon of Sichuan cookery. With author Alison Roman's stuffing update that has crispy edges and a moist center, you'll bridge the divide between lovers of dry stuffing and wet stuffing devotees at your Thanksgiving table. Instead of tossing everything, I pack a cooler with ice and use it to store all the weird mustards and miscellaneous condiments I refuse to part with. To finish, I’m not a pumpkin person, so I’ll make an apple dessert to serve with lots of ice cream. Combine greens in a large bowl, along with parsley, cilantro and chives. I sit down and eat, get up for seconds of potatoes, repeat. (You’ll use them to make your Cheater’s Turkey Stock.). oil in a large skillet; season with salt and pepper. But one of the kids asked for sushi, and so sushi I made: the fillets of fish cut as carefully as I could manage, then placed onto thumbs of sushi rice and rolled into tubes of nori and finally eaten on its own, sashimi-style, when we ran out of rice. Now, it’s really nothing to do with cooking or eating, but if you can make it to David Byrne’s “American Utopia” at the Hudson Theater on Broadway, I think you’ll find it a remarkable, uplifting, cheerful, strange and smart affair. This is my four-day weekend. For example, I will never tell you to make the mashed potatoes a day ahead, because reheated mashed potatoes are called leftovers. Many people will tell you to order your turkey about a month ahead. Anyway, moving the turkey: I do this by simply picking it up from both sides and gently plopping it right on the baking sheet. Using that menu, I make my shopping list, which I break down into three categories: grocery delivery (kitchen basics, pantry staples, dairy products), farmers’ market (vegetables, herbs, fruit, bread), and other (turkey, wine, specialty items). I follow that with the food, like the carved bird, baking dish of stuffing and side dishes. This is a good task for someone asking, “What can I do?”. Stuffing is unapologetically indulgent, so this is not the time to skimp on either fat. While the stock is simmering, I make the crust for a deep-dish apple galette. Check out Alison’s sheet-pan turkey recipe, of course. I do not want a “riff” on classic stuffing. How about you? It’s the day I’m doing the bulk of the shopping and prepping my physical and emotional space for all the cooking to come. Here’s the true story of Alison Roman’s Thanksgiving feast (above), which she cooked for us and a bunch of her friends in her New York City apartment recently, laboring over a tiny stove. There is no cream of mushroom soup, but there are fried shallots. Last Thanksgiving, I used a recipe from The New York Times' Alison Roman that had even the biggest stuffing haters get up for a second helping. This is the only reason to host Thanksgiving. Here’s the true story of Alison Roman’s Thanksgiving feast (above), which she cooked for us and a bunch of her friends in her New York City apartment recently, laboring over a tiny stove. Our columnist has a delightful article and a whole bunch of amazing recipes that we hope you introduce to your loved ones this year. This means nothing is getting done more than three days before Thanksgiving, and I refuse to panic about it. I’ll see you on Friday. This act signals that I have about four hours until I have to deliver on my promise of dinner for a roomful of people.

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